Jewish Sites in Krakow: Walking Tour of Kazimierz

Krakow was the final stop on our Jewish history tour through Poland and Ukraine. We had begun our trip by flying into Warsaw (read my self-guided walking tour of Jewish sites in Warsaw here!), then explored Lublin, hopped over the border to Lviv where we took a day trip to Stryj for some genealogy research, and then came to Krakow.

Unfortunately, Auschwitz is what comes to most people’s minds when “Krakow” and “Jewish history” are mentioned together. One of the most notorious concentration camps of the Holocaust is located just over an hour away. But what I expected to get out of Krakow - a sad history and a tale of a lost culture - was not necessarily what I found. Krakow today has honored its Jewish history in a way that Warsaw hasn’t, and because of this, its Jewish population is growing. Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter, is a bustling area with operating synagogues, mikvahs, Jewish/Israeli inspired restaurants, and an appreciation for its past that you won’t find elsewhere in Poland.

Exploring the Jewish sites in Krakow can be done in a day on a walking tour through Kazimierz, nestled along the north side of the Vistula river.

Incidentally, Kazimierz is also the nightlife hotspot, with trendy restaurants and bars. We ended up spending most of our time in Kazimierz because of this, and its central location makes it a great location to base yourself out of no matter what your purpose for visiting Krakow is. We stayed in a perfectly located, spotless, $34/night Airbnb in a beautiful old building in the heart of Kazimierz. Check out the photos below! You can book this Airbnb, and if its your first time using Airbnb, use my code to get $35 off your first stay!

Anyway, let’s get into this Kazimierz walking tour.

1. Synagoga Tempel

Start along ul. Miodowa; specifically, at Synagoga Tempel. Despite being partially destroyed by the Nazis, this synagogue was reopened and operating right after the war, and as early as 1947 a mikvah was opened inside. Today it is an active synagogue and the heart of the Jewish Culture Festival, hosting meetings, events, and even concerts. Right behind this synagogue you will find the...

2. Jewish Community Center of Krakow

This community center is really a testament to the surviving Jewish community in the city. If you have some extra time in Krakow and are looking to immerse yourself deeper into the Jewish life beyond a simple walking tour, visit the JCC for information on guided tours, Shabbat dinner, genealogical consultations, Jewish culinary workshops, and much, much more. Once you finish at the JCC, continue east along ul. Miodowa until you reach...

3. Synagoga Kupa

This synagogue was founded in 1643 and holds impressive paintings that line the inside of the building depicting Biblical scenes. Its northern wall connects with the remnants of the medieval Kazimierz city wall. Continue along ul. Miodowa and take a right on ul. Szeroka. This old street will take you to a large square: the heart of Jewish Kazimierz. Your first top in the square should be...

4. Synagoga Remuh

Ksiegarnia Bookshop

This synagogue is the most famous in all of Krakow and one of the oldest, finished in 1557. Thankfully, the building wasn't destroyed during the Holocaust. Behind the synagogue is the oldest Jewish cemetery in all of Krakow and the burial site of famed 16th century Rabbi Yom-Tov Lipmann Heller. Continue down through the square to the 16th century Wolf Popper Synagogue, today which houses the...

5. Ksiegarnia Bookshop

This bookshop is run by Austeria - a publishing house specialising in Judaica. Any topic somewhat related to Judaism, Jewish culture, or Jewish history you will find here. It is well worth a visit for anyone considers books great souvenirs.

6. Stara Synagoga

The next stop is at the end of the square: Stara Synagoga, or the Old Synagogue. It is the oldest synagogue in Krakow, built in the 15th century. During occupation it was used as a warehouse, and a place for execution of Polish hostages. Today it operates as a museum and is well-worth a visit.

Once you finish at the Stara Synagogue, head west along ul. Józefa where you'll see the old Kowea Itim le-Tora Synagogue - today it is used as apartment buildings, but its Stars of David lining the entrance will immediately stand out to you. Along this street is also...

7. Synagoga Wysoka

The High Synagogue is an inactive Orthodox synagogue, given its name for being the tallest synagogue in all of Krakow. It currently houses historical exhibits of the Jewish community.

8. Izaak Synagogue

Heading north on ul. Kupa from ul. Józefa will bring you to the Izaak Synagogue. It was built in 1644 and is named after Isaak the Rich, a Jewish banker at the heart of a fascinating legend. The synagogue currently houses Chabad Lubavitch of Krakow.

By now, you've seen six synagogues, still standing and some still operating, in the span of a few city blocks. Krakow truly has done a fantastic job at preserving its unique Jewish history and fostering the remaining Jewish community. One of the ways in which communities are sustained regardless of where in the world they are is food; and by now, you're probably hungry. You're in luck.

There are plenty of tourist-trap restaurants on ul. Szeroka, regardless of their traditional Jewish cuisine. In my opinion, any restaurant with an English menu perched outside and an overeager waiter asking for your business is not a restaurant you want to bestow with your patronage. However, there are two particular eateries that do deserve your money and they are located right along the Jewish Kazimierz walking tour. Doubling back from Izaak Synagogue and right next door to Synagoga Wysoka is the perfect place to have lunch before you continue on your walking tour:

9. Cheder

This cafe will transport you to the Middle East. Sure, maybe it is more Middle East-inspired than traditional Eastern European Jewish-inspired, but it is a must-visit lunch spot in Kazimierz. At Cheder (a Yiddish word for Jewish school) you can enjoy mint tea, finjan coffee (also known as Turkish coffee to most), and, supposedly, the best hummus in all of Krakow. You'll find Israeli and other Middle Eastern inspired flavors in the selection of drinks and food and the atmosphere - a cozy cafe lined with bookshelves and beaded pillows - is the perfect lunch spot. Once you finish up at Cheder you'll make one more stop on the north side of the river before crossing the bridge:

10. Galicia Jewish Museum

This museum exists to commemorate the victims of the Holocaust while also shedding light on the history of Jews in Poland and across Galicia. It offers new and different perspectives on Jewish history and is a must visit.

Next, cross the river. It is at this point that you are entering what was once the Jewish ghetto of Krakow, and the entrance to the ghetto was...

11. Ghetto Heroes Square

This square is where selections were made within the ghetto, when Nazi officers would decide who seemed fit enough to work in camps; those who were young or elderly or sick were sent to Belzec, an extermination camp. Finally, make your way down ul. Lwowska and find a...

12. Fragment of the Ghetto Wall

The plaque on the wall reads in Polish and Hebrew: "Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of German torturers. From here they began their final journey to the death camps."

Schinder's Factory

A note on Schindler's Factory: due to high demand, it is best to get to Schindler's factory as early as possible and reserve a good chunk of your morning for your visit. For this reason, it wasn't included on this walking tour - it is best to visit Schindler's Factory separately, and on this day you could also visit the last two sites on the list above as well. If you're in town on a Monday, reserve Schindler's Factory for that day, as entrance tickets on Mondays are free.

Once you finish your day's tourist activities, consider heading back to ul. Szeroka for dinner and drinks at the second non-tourist trap restaurant alongside Cheder: Hamsa, an Israeli-inspired eatery with beautiful outdoor seating. Located at the north end of the square, this restaurant (and its sister bar on the top floor, Sababa) will wow you, especially if you've grown tired of rather bland pierogi and need some spice in your cuisine!