48 Hours in Lviv, Ukraine
Before we jump into this blog, let me be honest: I had never even heard of Lviv before planning a genealogy trip to western Ukraine. We were leaving Poland and heading to Stryi, a small town, and Pidhorotsi, an even smaller village, nestled amongst the Carpathian mountains in Western Ukraine, to embark on a genealogy journey and explore my partner’s Jewish roots. In order to get to these off-the-beaten-path locations, we needed a home base and after a quick scan of Google Maps, it became clear that Lviv would be the place.
Lviv is the largest city in western Ukraine, but only the 7th largest city in the country overall. At one point, it was the capital of the Kingdom of Galicia, once part of the Austria-Hungarian Empire, and, in contemporary history, it was a Polish city until 1939 after the German-Soviet invasion of Poland. It was part of the Soviet Union until 1991, when Ukraine officially gained statehood, and Lviv became a Ukrainian city.
This constantly evolving history speaks to the draw of Lviv (or, to some of the older generation, Lwów). It has become one of the cultural centers of Ukraine with a beautifully colored Jewish, Austrian, Polish, Russian, and Ukrainian history. Walking through the cobblestone streets of Lviv, to me, felt like walking through an undiscovered Paris: untouched by tourism, yet bursting at the seams with music, food, art, architecture, and life overall.
And did you know - the entire old town of Lviv is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site?!
So if you’re planning a trip to Lviv, let me be the first to say that you will not be disappointed. There is so much to do and see - and even more to eat! - so, let’s dive right in. Here are my recommendations for what to do and where to eat in Lviv.
Where to Stay
I am a huge advocate for Airbnbs, for multiple reasons. I think they provide a much more authentic experience than hotels do - why stay in a Hilton or a Hyatt in Ukraine that looks like any other Hilton or Hyatt around the world, when you could stay in a charming flat with a balcony overlooking the main square? I always try to make my accommodation a part of my experience rather than just another logistical facet of the trip.
Airbnbs can also often be cheaper than hotels. In the case of Lviv, you get all the bang for your buck. Our Airbnb, for example, was just $39/night (check it out!), right in the heart of the city centre and believe me - the Airbnbs in Lviv are some of the most beautiful properties I have ever seen listed. Here are my top 10 Airbnb stays in the city centre of Lviv.
What to Do
Our first outing was a hike to the top of the High Castle Park to get a view of the city below. At one point, the Lviv High Castle stood at the top of this hill; today it is in ruins but the observation point at the top of the ‘Union of Lublin’ Mound will give you a breathtaking view of the city. And yes - the walk is steep and literally breathtaking. Be sure to bring water!
Back in the city centre, we wandered the medieval city streets aimlessly - the best way to tour a new place - and stumbled across a number of can’t miss sights:
Exploring Rynok Square, the center of Lviv
The Black House is an unmissable renaissance building in Rynok Square (really, you can’t miss it - it’s jet black!) that houses the Lviv Historical Museum. It was built in the late 1500s and is one of the most famous architectural structures in all of the city. Unfortunately the building was under renovation during our trip there, so we weren’t able to go inside, but this building and the museum it houses are unmissable points in Lviv.
Lviv is a history lover’s paradise. There are traditional museums, like the history musuem housed in the Black House, but if history isn’t your cup of tea, maybe weaponry is? Take a tour of Museum Arsenal, housed in the original 16th century building that once held the arsenal of the old walled city of Lviv. And while you’re there, enjoy the ribs at Rebernia, the ribs-themed restaurant housed in the same building.
If you’re visiting Lviv to research Jewish genealogy, you can’t miss the Golden Rose Synagogue; or, what’s left of it. It was once the oldest synagogue in Ukraine, founded in the late 1500s. In the 1600s, Jesuits took over the building, and as local legend has it, the founder’s daughter, Rosa, secured the restitution of the building; hence why it became known as Golden Rose. The Nazis destroyed the building in 1943, and today the space serves as a commemoration to once vibrant Jewish community of Lviv. For more information on the Jewish sites of Lviv, check out this virtual walking tour.
Another building of religious and historical importance that should not be missed is the Lviv Latin Cathedral, which houses the Chapel of the Boim family. Dating to the 1300s, the cathedral is an architectural wonder, and the 400-year-old chapel is the final resting place of 14 members of what was once one of the most influential families in Lviv.
If final resting places are your jam (read: if you are also a genealogist) you can’t miss Lychakiv Cemetery. A short walk outside of the old town will bring you to the cemetery that many compare to Paris’ Pėre-Lachaise. When Lviv was ___ by the Austro-Hungarian empire, an edict was declared that all cemeteries had to be moved outside the city. Tombstones of all the historic cemeteries in Lviv were moved to Lychakiv Cemetery, making it a metropolis (or should I say necropolis) of burials for the middle and upper classes of the city. The tombstone designs of the cemetery and the names inscribed on them are a microcosm of the overall history of this region of the country: once Polish, then Soviet, and now Ukrainian.
Where to Eat
Undoubtedly one of the crucial things to do in Lviv is to eat (and drink). I couldn’t have written a comprehensive ‘what to do in Lviv’ blog without giving you my top recommendations on where to indulge in delicious food and drink, because food and drink is as engrained into this city’s tourism attractions just as history and architecture are. And if you’re visiting from North America or western Europe, you will be pleasantly surprised by how cheap everything is. Let’s start off with the most important feature of the Lviv food scene: coffee.
Coffee
Coffee is the heart of Lviv. Legend has it that the only reason Vienna holds the title of coffee capital of Europe is because a man from Lviv opened the first coffee house there. Upon further research from trusty ‘ol Wikipedia, it would seem this legend told to us in Lviv is actually true. So there you have it, you heard it here first: when in Lviv, you must drink coffee.
The atrium at Lviv Coffee Manufacture
The best place to do that is Lviv Coffee Manufacture. Be sure to go to the one in Rynok Square because, as you’ll come to find, it’s full of endless surprises. Upon entering the building you will immediately be greeted by a huge coffee machine swirling and grinding the beans. Head to the back of the shop and you’ll find ample, quaint seating to enjoy your cup. But… keep exploring the maze of this coffee shop and you’ll find a few more surprises. In the very back the building opens up to a beautiful, light-filled atrium where, in the evenings, you can enjoy live music and drinks. Around the entrance to the atrium you might also see some uninviting stairs leading to the darkness below. Without any signs to tell you not to enter, you might head down those stairs… at which point you’ll find yourself walking through an underground mine. Yep, you read that right. A mine. In this strange setting you’ll come across yet another coffee bar where the specialty is coffee lit on fire to crystalize its sugary coating. It was truly one of the best experiences I had in Lviv.
Worthy shout out: while in Lviv, you will also have to try Raf coffee, a style popular in Russia. After trying my fair share of this creamy delicacy, I came to decide the best was found at Aroma Kava, a popular coffee chain in Lviv.
Breakfast
Enjoying a latte and people watching
at Centaur in Rynok Square
For a quick grab-and-go breakfast and coffee, check out Lviv Croissant - a true croissant heaven, with menu offerings ranging from savory to sweet. But if you’re looking for a nicer, sit-down breakfast spot, the centrally-located Centaur and Atlas both offer beautiful atmospheres inside and outdoors in the main square to people watch.
Lunch and Dinner
The breakfast spots in Lviv are okay, but later-in-the-day meals are where the city’s food scene really comes to life. For the meat eaters reading this, there are two particularly unique restaurants that you absolutely cannot skip while in Lviv.
At Rebernia you’ll find massive racks of ribs, served to you on wooden platters. The restaurant is actually housed below the Arsenal Museum, which was once - you guessed it - the old arsenal building of the walled city, erected in the 1500s.
And as long as we’re talking about the marriage of meat and medieval times here, topping the list at probably what is the strangest themed restaurant I’ve ever been to is Meat and Justice, a medieval torture device-themed restaurant. Be careful, or the waiter might lower you down into the ground in a cage while threatening you with a large axe. No, I’m not kidding. It’s fun!
Lviv prides itself on its themed-restaurants (or at least so it seems), and Kryivka tops the list as the best. If you’re looking for classic Eastern European / Ukrainian dishes - deruny, varenkny, and borscht - Kryivka is your place... if you can find it. I’m not one to give away secrets. The restaurant is housed in a former Ukrainian army bunker, and with no advertised address, you’ll have to ask a local where to find it. Going along with the insurgency theme, there’s also a password to say at the door - to make sure you aren’t a Russian spy, of course! Get it wrong, you won’t get in. Get it right, you’ll be handed a shot of vodka (which you can’t pass up - literally, they won’t let you in without taking it!) before entering the dungeon-like atmosphere. Kryivka not only offered the most unique experience, but had the best food during my time in Lviv as well.
You might be thinking it couldn’t get more odd than a hidden underground bunker with a password and a shot of vodka as an entrance fee. I’m here to tell you: it does get weirder. Try visiting The Most Expensive Galician Restaurant. I won’t say anything else about it. You’re going to want to look it up yourself.
Drinks
At the end of the day when there is nothing you would like more than to enjoy a drink and some of the night life that Lviv has to offer, there is one place in particular that you absolutely cannot miss: Pravda Beer Hall. This massive, open-air, four-story beer hall, ringing with live music, will pale in comparison to anywhere you have ever been. The atmosphere is alive here, and it will feel like a party the moment you walk in.
If you’re looking for something a little more low-key, go back to Lviv Coffee Manufacture to enjoy some live music in the atrium, or visit the Jazz cocktail bar Libraria.
You will also want to stop in Piana Vyshnia (which translates to ‘drunk cherry’). Home to the famous cherry liqueur originating in Lviv, the crowds visiting Piana Vyshnia spill out into Rynok square. This liqueur, which is comparable to cherry wine, is famous across Ukraine.
So, what do you think about this guide to Lviv? Have you been to Lviv and have favorite spots of your own? Leave a comment below!